Deprecated: Hook jetpack_pre_connection_prompt_helpers is deprecated since version jetpack-13.2.0 with no alternative available. in /home4/itchydo1/public_html/wp-includes/functions.php on line 6078
Grooming – Itchy Dog Solutions

Category: Grooming

Categories
Ears Grooming

Prevent Nasty Infections With These Tips for Cleaning Your Dog’s Ears

dogear

Let’s face it, your dog probably doesn’t like to get their ears cleaned. And it’s easy to see why. So for many owners, this is one of those tasks we may forget about when it comes to grooming our dog. After all, it’s not like you can forget to bathe them once they start smelling or roll in something they shouldn’t. But ears? There’s a good chance you don’t ever look into your dog’s ears, so it’s easy to forget that they too get dirty.

But not only do they get dirty, ears are also a breeding ground for bacteria and fungal infections. Especially if you have a floppy eared dog who likes going swimming, ear infections are something you need to be concerned about. But even if your dog doesn’t have floppy ears and they despise the water, they can still do with a little cleaning.

How often will I need to clean my dog’s ears?

This depends on your dog of course. Factors that affect how often you clean your dog’s ears include their breed, age, activity level and their coat. But for most dogs, once a month should be good. However, after swimming or getting water in the ears, you will want to clean them out too, even if it’s more than once a month. For that reason, find a gentle cleaner that allows for frequent use.

What items should I use to clean my dog’s ears?

Just like with human ears, avoid using cotton swabs. There’s too much potential for damage to the ear, and it’s best to avoid sticking anything in a dog’s ear, especially if they’re squirming around trying to fight you. Instead, use cotton balls or even wrap your finger in gauze to wipe them clean.

What products should I use and how should I use them?

Chances are, your dog isn’t going to like having their ears cleaned. So it’s best to limit the amount of steps you take in order to get it done. Which is why you may want to forgo the cotton balls altogether and use a wipe instead, like these ear wipes that are all-natural, gentle and alcohol free. They make it easy to wipe down your dog’s ears without too many products, and it’s just one easy step.

The wipes are perfect for normal dog’s ears. If your dog doesn’t seem to get dirty, itchy, infected ears often or they’re not swimmers, go for the wipes.

dogearswim

But if your dog is prone to ear infections and tend to get water build up in the ear (from swimming), you will want to use a product that helps dry out the liquid.

Even more so than the wipes, you need to pick a quality cleanser that will dry out the water without drying out the skin in their sensitive ears. This cleanser will do just that. This formula softens earwax and helps dry out the ear, which is important after swimming. But thanks to essential oils, it won’t be too drying either, making it safe to use daily or several times a week.

How do I clean the ear?

As mentioned above, don’t stick anything down into the ear canal. Also, their ears are sensitive, so don’t stick any harsh materials into the ear or anything that can scratch it. This allows for bacteria to get into the skin, causing a higher chance of infection.

With the wipes

1) Just use the wipe to clean the inside of the ear, being careful not to poke too far down into it. If your dog is the squirmy type, get a friend to help you hold them steady and bribe them with treats and praise.

2) Repeat on the other ear.

3) Marvel at how easy that was.

4) Give your dog even more treats and plenty of praise. Turn this into a rewarding experience!

With the cleanser

1) If your dog isn’t easy to control, you may want to get some help to keep them still for the few seconds it takes to get the job done.

2) Once you have the dog in position, squirt a few drops into the ear, making sure it goes into the ear canal.

3) Rub around the base of the ear to get the cleanser deep in there.

4) Allow your dog to shake his head, or wait until the end if they are the type to run off at this time.

5) Move on to the other ear, squirting a few drops in.

6) Let your dog shake, shake it off. This loosens the gunk inside there and forces most of it out.

7) Wipe down the outer parts of the ear, as needed, with a cotton ball.

8) Don’t forget… Praise and treats!

9) For very dirty ears, you may want to repeat this 2-3 times a day for a few days until all of the gunk is out of there. From there, you can do it weekly, monthly or after they swim.

Make cleaning your dog’s ears part of your regular grooming routine and before long, they will treat it just as they do a bath or anything else. Sure, some dogs may fight it, but in the end, it’s worth it. Ear infections require antibiotics and costly trips to the vet, and they can easily be prevented by simply cleaning your dog’s ears regularly.

Question: Do you clean your dog’s ears regularly? If so, how does your dog respond to it? Any tips to help those with dogs who resist? We’d love to hear from you!

Categories
Dog Conditioner Grooming Mattes & Tangles Shampoo

Long-Haired Dog Tips: How to Save Hundreds at the Groomers (Hint: Your Total Cost Will Only Be $12.99)

longhaireddog 2

Long-haired dogs are stunning to look at, but for most people, it can also be intimidating. But let me tell you – it doesn’t have to be that way. Just as with with the hair on your head, finding a regimen that works for you and your dog can make things both easier and more comfortable. It’s finding out what you need to do that can be tricky.

Thankfully, we have you covered, and will give you the lowdown on everything you need to know to keep your dog’s coat shiny, free of knots and most of all, more comfortable for your canine companion.

Before we get started on the basics though, it’s important to know the type of coat your dog has. There are essentially six different types of dog coats, some requiring less grooming than others. Since our focus is on mainly dogs with thick, long coats, we will look at the two types that apply to long haired dogs.

1) Smooth Coat – Dogs with a smooth coat don’t need to be groomed as often. There’s no hair to untangle, and you usually can get away with just washing and brushing. You may also want to use a dog shampoo and conditioner that make you dog’s hair shine. A dog shampoo such as our Sparkle and Shine Brightening Shampoo should do the trick.

2) Double Coat – A double-coat is exactly what it sounds like. Not only does the dog have one layer of hair, but there’s also an undercoat, making the fur thicker than their single-coated brethren. Not all double-coated dogs have long hair – some actually have short hair. Short-haired, double-coated dogs are a bit easier to groom than the long-haired variety, but you still need to make sure to brush out the undercoat in addition to the top coat. For the undercoat, you’ll want to brush outward from the skin. For the top coat, brush in the direction of the fur instead of against it.

admin-ajax

For long-haired dogs, you will want to section out the hair, focusing your attention on each section rather than the entire dog at once. Brush the undercoat away from the dog, as this removes any loose hair – and helps with shedding.

When brushing double-coated dogs, it’s not unusual to come across mats and tangles. Sure, you can try brushing them out, but chances are, your dog won’t be too crazy about it. Especially if there’s yanking and pulling involved. But don’t worry, there’s a special detangler that can help remove those nasty knots. Ruff to Smooth Detangler is a leave-in conditioner and detangler that can be used as an all-over conditioner after a bath or as a spot treatment on stubborn tangles. Yes, you can even use it on a dry dog, so no bath is needed to use it.

We talked about dog shampoo above, but there’s another product that’s also important to keep on hand. Most of us use conditioner on our own heads, and dogs are not much different. Having a conditioned coat can make it easier to brush and help minimize knots. Fur Butter Deep Conditioner is ideal for long-haired dogs or for those with damaged coats. In addition to helping you manage your dog’s fur, it also has colloidal oatmeal, a natural ingredient which helps minimize itching. There’s also Shea butter which helps moisturize your dog’s skin as well as their fur.

Whatever products you end up buying, however, be sure to look at the ingredients. You want to avoid sulfates, which tend to dry out skin and hair, just like in humans, and parabens. Natural ingredients like Shea butter, honey, natural based surfactants, and even yogurt are much better for your dog than many of the chemicals you’ll find in other brands. Especially when you have a dog who has a coat that is long and prone to knots and drying out, you want to make sure you take care of it much like you care for the hair on your head.

If your dog merely has long hair, but isn’t double coated, many of the same tips and tricks will still work. In fact, it’s the same philosophy, you just don’t have to worry about the undercoat. You’ll still want to find a shampoo, conditioner and a detangler to help manage the coat. Once you find the right products and start grooming them, it will only become easier and easier with repeated washings. And as an extra bonus – by grooming your dog, you will also cut down on shedding, so both you and your dog will be happier, healthier and more comfortable.

Categories
Grooming Shampoo

Can I use my shampoo on my dog?

Keeping our dogs clean and smelling nice can be a huge problem if your pet has itchy, flaky skin or is sensitive to the chemicals in human shampoos. When you maintain the proper pH balance in your dog’s skin, you can prevent a lot of issues that lead to itching, scratching, and a dull coat.

You may be surprised that there is actually a big  difference between human and canine shampoos. You may not notice the ill-effects of human shampoo if used only a couple of times, but after repeated use, you’ll start to notice. Here’s why:

1. Ph Balance. A dog’s skin is about 7.5 while human skin is about 5.5 (to put it in perspective, water is about 7.0). Therefore, a dog’s skin is more alkaline so ideally a dog’s shampoo should be between 6.5-7.5 or it could be irritating to the skin. Highly acidic shampoos may also diminish the hair’s protective qualities, removing valuable oil from the coat and skin. The result is dry, irritated skin and a dull coat. Of course it’s a vicious cycle because the dog will scratch which only makes the problem worse. To learn more about how a shampoos Ph balance affects a dog’s skin click here

2. Dog’s have sensitive skin– A dog only has about 3-5 cell-layers thick while we have about 10-15 layers. So, harsh shampoos with lots of chemicals and those that aren’t PH balanced will be irritating.

Pet parents can make the mistake of using human shampoo on their dogs, and totally remove that acidic mantle (a thin layer of acidic oil that covers the top layer of skin and protects it from bacteria, viruses, and other harmful elements) without the dog’s body being able to replenish the needed oils back to its normal range. When that happens, you’ll see a dog with dry, itchy skin that can lead to scratching sores and bacterial infections.

What do I look for in doggy shampoos?

  • Read the labels on canine shampoos. Look for all-natural, organic ingredients, fragrances, moisturizers.
  • Buying a good quality, all-natural canine shampoo and conditioner may mean spending a little more – but one bottle can last 6 months and will save your dog from the incessant itching and scratching that comes from using a cheaper, human product.
  • For all natural shampoos jam packed with herbs and botanicals you’ll love happytails

 

Is your dog suffering from itchy skin?

This FREE e-book could solve your dog’s itchy skin problem. Written by veterinarians and holistic pet practitioners the book is jam-packed with natural tips and solutions to bring relief to your itchy dog, Just click to get your copy.bit.ly/itchydogskin

AnimalWellnessBanner1200x1200 (2)

Categories
Grooming Itchy Skin & Allergies Shampoo

How often should you bathe your dog?

Most advice you find on the internet recommends washing your dog just several times per year!

Times have changed! Today, dogs enjoy shampoos and conditioners that are on par with the best human shampoos- that don’t have harsh chemicals and that don’t strip the hair of all of its oils.

The arguments against washing your dog too often are generally about stripping the coat of natural oils. The more often you wash something, the more often the sebum (oil) is going to be removed. Think about your own hair. If you don’t wash it, what happens? It gets oily. Is the oil good for your hair? Probably, but we wash our hair everyday anyway so that it’s clean!

 

1. Does your dog live indoors or outdoors, and does your dog sleep in your bed?

If your dog lives in your house with you and more importantly, if he/she sleeps in your bed, then you are probably going to wash your dog regularly–depending on the breed anywhere from once a week to once a month. I know this is radical thinking, but, if your dog sits on your sofa, you probably don’t want him dragging in dirt, poop, insects and other grime onto your sofa. So, the trade off is that your dog’s coat ~might ~ be marginally drier but you will have a fresh smelling dog that you can cuddle without the fear that gross stuff is getting into the sheets.

2. Breed of dog

Harsh-textured coats repel dirt pretty well so they don’t get as dirty as a soft-coated dog.  Breeds with harsh-textured coast include Shelties, Collies and labs and they can be bathed once a month. Dogs without undercoats like Maltese, Yorkies, Afghans and Shitzus should be bathed once a week. If you’re not sure, remember, a clean dog is a happy dog!

3. Is anyone in your household allergic to dogs?

If so, you SHOULD groom & bathe them as often as possible. According to the American Lung Association, doing so will help remove the dander that accumulates on a pet’s fur.

I am allergic to one of my dogs and when I don’t wash her once a week I get wheezy and sneezy.

4. What activities does your dog partake in?

Do you take your dog to the dog park? Does you dog play in the sand or dirt? Does your dog roll in the grass or go swimming or hiking? What about sniffing butts, eating poop or drooling?

Well, if you have a normal dog, she probably partakes in several of the above activities– all of which warrant regular bathing. Again, you have to think of the trade off. Your dog’s coat may be marginally drier HOWEVER, he will be cleaner, smell better, and most important you will be more likely to give a clean dog lots of love.

5. Does your dog suffer from itchy skin?

Unlike humans who absorb most environmental allergens through their noses and mouths, dogs tend to absorb allergens through the skin. Weekly bathing can prevent itchiness, washing allergens away before they get a chance to penetrate the skin.

In conclusion — the answer for MOST dogs is to wash them every 2-4 weeks depending on the above circumstances.

But remember, use a gentle pet shampoo and conditioner and do not use your own shampoo (we’ll discuss why not next week). These are a couple of high end pet shampoo and conditioners we recommend.

 

Categories
Grooming Itchy Skin & Allergies Shampoo

Would your dog benefit if you conditioned her coat? Answer these 6 questions to find out

doginbath-bulldogwithducks

 

Most people dislike bathing their dog because, let’s admit it, it’s a pain in the rear end.  Taking extra time to condition their dog would be a real luxury. However, conditioning can really improve the state of their coat.

The case for conditioners – As we all know, shampoos by design are used for removing unwanted grime from the skin and coat. But shampooing, without sealing the coat afterwards, leaves the hair shaft open where residue can enter and oils and hydration escape. But conditioning after shampooing will close the hair cuticle and restore hydration, moisture and elasticity.

To determine if your dog is a good candidate for conditioner answer the following questions:

1. How long is your dog’s coat?

2. Does he/she have an under coat?

3. How often do you wash your dog?

4. Does your dog have itchy skin?

5. The cuddle factor (CF) you would like to achieve.

6. How adverse is your dog to bath time?

Long Coats

If your dog has a long coat,  then it may be prone to mats and tangles (think Maltese, Yorkies, Afgans). Using a conditioner will not only make your dog’s coat healthier it will make your job a lot easier by helping to remove mats and tangles and the after bath brush out will be a breeze.

Undercoat

Dog’s without undercoats will probably receive the most benefit from a conditioner. Because their hair most resembles human hair, it’s thin, easily tangles and gets dirty quickly. Dogs with undercoats usually have thicker coarser hair (like a lab) and therefore do not matte and the coat tends to repel dirt.

Wash Frequency

If you wash your dog often (more than 1x per month) you should definitely condition your dog to close that hair shaft so the coat retains moisture.

Itchy Skin

If your dog has itchy skin , you may want to bathe your dog more often to get rid of allergens. And if you’re washing your dog frequently, conditioner is a good idea. Be sure to use one that has oatmeal which works wonders for itchy skin and other botanicals to help combat itchy skin. Look for herbs like aloe, burdock, comfrey and boswellia to help with inflammation.

The Cuddle Factor (CF)

Of course this is the most important thing to consider!  I have a maltese and nothing is better than slathering her with Fur Butter (or Fur Worse) Deep Conditioner. Her coat is left so amazingly soft. It immediately makes the CF go from 10 to 1,000,000.

Bath Time adversity

If your dog really really hates the water and can’t hang around in the tub for one minute longer, there are still things you can do to condition your dog. For example, there are some great 2-in-1 Shampoos and Conditioners you can check out like Bubbles ‘n Beads. Not only does it smell amazing but it gets the job done fast.  Or, get a leave-in conditioner that you simply spray into the dog’s coat after a bath. This aids with the brush out process and adds moisture into the coat. Most of these can be used on a wet or dry coat.

So there is some science to this after all, it’s not all just fluff (not pun intended) Although for most of us it will come down to unquantifiable things like the all important Fluff Factor and of course the aforementioned Cuddle Factor (CF).

 

Categories
Grooming

What Your Dog’s Nose Can Tell You About His Health

by Cate Burnette, RVT

Did you know that your dog’s nose is completely individualized? Just like the human fingerprint, the ridges on the canine nose are distinctly individual for each dog – no other dog in the world has the same nasal imprint. There are other things your pup’s snout can tell you about his health and what is going on in his environment.

Whether your pooch’s nose is the palest pink, a soft brown, or the deepest black, a variety of things can cause it to change color.

  • Dogs with pale or sensitive noses will show some minor color change with the change in the seasons – similar to people who easily tan.
  • Dogs that eat or drink out of plastic dishes may suffer from contact dermatitis caused by the chemicals used to make the plastic, and their noses can redden and start flaking. Changing to a glass or ceramic dish will take care of this problem.
  • Normally light-colored noses easily sunburn and can redden and become painful with overexposure to bright sunlight. Repeated exposure over the years can result in skin cancers, called melanomas, on your pup’s snout and other pink-skinned, pale-haired areas of his body. Make sure your dog has plenty of shade if he’s outside all day and consider keeping him in during the hottest part of the day. There are canine sunscreens out on the market that you can purchase to protect sensitive areas. Please note: if your pup has a bad burn that blisters or bleeds, you need to contact your veterinarian.

A dog’s wet nose serves two purposes –

1) to help the dog smell

2) to help the dog shed heat. The thin mucus on your dog’s nose allows heat to evaporate from his body and works the same way as panting does to bring down internal body temperature. This same liquid also provides a sticky surface for chemicals in the air to become trapped and dissolve down into the skin, where the olfactory cells (the ones that detect and differentiate smells) are located.

Typically, a dog that is alert and actively sniffing the air or ground will have a wetter nose than one who is relaxed or sleeping. It is not uncommon for your dog to lick his nose so that the chemicals that are there go from his tongue directly onto another smelling organ located in the roof of his mouth. This type of sensory adaptation, coupled with the long folds of olfactory tissue located in a dog’s snout, is the reason canines have such an excellent sense of smell.

It is a common myth that a dry nose means your dog is sick. Relaxed and sleeping dogs commonly have dry noses. Watch for symptoms of illness to determine if your dog is unwell. A dog with a dry, hot nose that is lethargic and also running a fever needs to see a veterinarian. So does a dog with a nose that is wetter than usual and runny with a thick or crusty discharge. Many vets think this myth came about when the canine distemper virus was common. One symptom of distemper is skin-cell thickening of the nose and footpads. A cool, wet nose was considered a good sign the dog was healthy back before distemper vaccines made this horrible disease less common.

If you feel like your pup’s nose is a bit too dry or you just want to clean his nose and muzzle, you can try all-natural, pre-moistened pads or wipes to keep him moisturized and dirt free. Find the kind that are alcohol-free and made with colloidal silver (a broad-spectrum natural antibiotic) and herbs such as Golden Seal and Eyebright that work to reduce inflammation and contain skin enriching nutrients.

If you’re looking for a moisturizing effect, try Paw & Nose Rub by Cain & Able Collection. Unlike some balms that are petroleum based Paw Rub is made with shea butter. It’s an excellent carrier of other healing ingredients but shea butter itself helps improve the healing process, improves moisture retention, soothes and protects the skin from environmental damage.

Categories
Activities & Fun Dental Hygeine Food Grooming

New Year’s Resolutions For Your Dog…And You

Everybody wants to start the New Year off on the right foot…or in the case of pet parents, the right feet. What are some of the changes you want to see in your dog’s life for the coming year? If you and your dog need to get in shape, find a better eating plan, or just generally de-stress, we have some suggestions for you. Here are five resolutions you and your dog can enjoy together.

1. My dog and I need to get in shape…

If you can’t easily feel your dog’s ribs under a thin layer of skin and there is no significant waistline dip between her ribs and her hips, then chances are your pooch may be anywhere from slightly overweight to obese. Extra pounds can add stress to your pet’s cardiac and respiratory systems, make it difficult for her liver and kidneys to function normally, and strain her joints. As it does in humans, the added weight can detract from her health and take years off her life.

This year, make a plan to take your pooch for longer walks instead of just quickly traipsing around the block after dinner. Go on some over-country hikes or even short runs to increase her activity level. Take her to the doggy park so that she can socialize, run, and play with her canine friends. Throw a ball and play fetch (or just chase her down to retrieve the ball) for an afternoon in your backyard.

All of these activities are guaranteed to increase muscle strength and burn calories and fat on your dog…and you.

2. I want to make sure my pooch gets more nutritious foods and treats…

Now that your dog is playing harder and exercising more, take a look at the kind of foods she eats and what ingredients are in her kibble. Most commercial foods and treats are processed with fillers, chemical preservatives, and un natural coloring and flavoring agents. These ingredients may or may not be harmful to your pet, but by and large, they have no nutritional value. Additionally, if you have a dog with skin allergies, commercial foods containing corn or wheat gluten may be exacerbating her itching problems.

Because of those additives, we recommend feeding your pooch grain-free kibble, a homemade diet using products found in your pantry and refrigerator, or a raw diet. You can go online and research to find which foods or diet would work best for your dog, your budget, and your time. If your choose a homemade diet, look for easy one-, two-, or three-ingredient recipes that provide all the proteins, carbs, and fats your dog requires. Additionally, acquaint yourself with those foods that your dog can eat safely and those foods that she should never eat. Onions, grapes, avocados, chocolate, and yeasty bread dough come to mind. Look for healthy, all-natural, organic treats and nutritional bars and supplements that not only taste good to your pet, but also are good for them.

**Please note: Never start your dog on a new diet or a new food without first consulting with your veterinarian.

3. Giving back to dogs in need

Let’s face it, your dog is pretty lucky, The fact that you are reading this educational dog health blog means you care! Why not give back to other dogs that aren’t as lucky. One really easy way to do that which won’t cost you an extra penny is by buying your dog food and treats from DOG for DOG. For every bag of food or treats you buy one is given to a dog in need! Check out their all natural food and treats and amazing mission.

4. Take care of your dog’s teeth!

Caring for your dog’s teeth is as important a part of owning a pet as feeding and bathing him. It’s unfortunately true that a large percentage of dogs have oral health problems by the time they are three years of age. You can reduce the likelihood of your dog becoming one of these statistics by establishing a dental care routine right from when he’s a puppy.

Other statistics show that just by caring for your dog’s teeth, you can add 3-5 years to her life! Isn’t that amazing? Most of us don’t ever brush our dog’s teeth– EVER. But now you know, so you’ll do something to change that.

The most important part of your dog’s home dental care routine is brushing his teeth (or if your dog resists brushing there are lots of other ways to take care of her teeth). This prevents plaque accumulating on his teeth and gums, and hardening into tartar. Ideally, you should brush his teeth twice daily, just as you do your own. However, life can sometimes get in the way, so if you can manage it once a day, that’s certainly better than not at all. And if you’re like most people once every few days would still be heroic!

5. Grooming should not be so stressful…

Some dogs love the water and love getting regular baths. If yours is one that hides when she hears the bath water running, it may be time to try de-stressing her.

The scent of lavender has long been shown to have a calming effect on both humans and animals, so bathing and conditioning your dog in an lavender shampoo might be a way to ease her water anxieties.You can also try using a leave-in spritzing conditioner made with lavender and calming chamomile to help her stay relaxed after bathing.

For maximum effect try an oral calming remedy. We like Sleepytime Tonic which helps to calm and soothe an anxious pooch. Also perfect before fireworks, travel and trips to the groomer and vet.

For those times when bathing is not an option, a spray-on waterless shampoo and dry bath might be just the ticket. Made with ingredients that eliminate the odor-causing proteins on your dog’s skin and fur, you won’t need to drag her to the tub and get her wet to help her smell and feel better – easing stress levels for both of you.

Categories
Grooming Itchy Skin & Allergies

Dogs and Frequent Bathing- Tips on Dealing With an Allergic Pooch

If you have an itchy, allergic dog, you know that with spring already here and warm weather about to hit, the pollens in the plants and grasses around your home are going to exacerbate your pup’s skin issues. Other than putting your dog on veterinary corticosteroids to quell the skin inflammation inherent in allergies, there are several things you can do at home to lessen the problem.

Frequent Bathing

To remove allergens from your dog’s coat and skin, try bathing your pet once or twice a week.

Because in canines, allergens primarily assert their effect through contact with the animal’s skin, frequent bathing may relieve the allergic inflammation that leads to constant scratching and skin infections. Additionally, bathing eliminates dander, bacteria, yeast, and loose hair that can contribute to infections and skin issues. It also promotes healing by getting rid of dead skin cells and encouraging new cell growth.

If you choose to bathe your dog at 3 to 4 day intervals, you’ll need to ensure that you’re not removing necessary moisture and oils from his skin and hair. You could try using an all-natural, organic shampoo made with colloidal oatmeal that not only promotes healing and reduces inflammation, but also moisturizes dry skin and hair.

Dogs with very flaky skin and dry, damaged hair are best served when their pet parents use an ultra-rich, colloidal oatmeal conditioner after bathing. By massaging the conditioner into your dog’s wet skin and hair before drying him, you’re putting a protective barrier of natural ingredients including shea butter, comfrey, callundula and aloe vera between his skin and allergens. You’re also adding natural moisturizers to your pet’s dry skin and coat.

Another way to avoid removing those necessary skin oils is to simply rinse your dog’s skin and hair under warm, clear water several times a week. By massaging water through the hair down to the skin, you’re still removing allergens and dead cells, but leaving behind the natural moisturizers that chemical canine shampoos take away. Rub most of the water away with a clean, dry towel and allow your pet to air-dry if the weather permits. You’ll be able to get rid of some of the dander and loose cells on the top layer of skin and eliminate dead hair by running a brush or comb through the coats of both short- and long-haired dogs.

If you decide to rinse with clear water instead of bathing, you may want to use an all-natural waterless shampoo and dry bath to help eliminate any of those nasty doggy smells. A dry shampoo is also a great alternative cleaner to keep by the door to clean paws, bellies, and mouths of any plant pollens tracked in from the outside.

Staying a pro-active pet parent often means planning before your furry companion starts his annual itch-fest. By changing your dog’s diet now, adding supplements, and bathing early – and frequently – you can help your pooch be less itchy during warm weather than in previous years, and keep him happy year round.

Categories
Grooming

How Does A Shampoo’s pH Balance Affect My Dog’s Skin?

Keeping our dogs clean and smelling nice can be a huge problem if your pet has itchy, flaky skin or is sensitive to the chemicals in human shampoos. Finding a canine shampoo that matches your dog’s skin type is often a matter of testing different products to see what works best for your dog. When you maintain the proper pH balance in your dog’s skin, you can prevent a lot of issues that lead to itching, scratching, and a dull hair coat.

What is the normal pH balance of a dog’s skin and how is it different than human skin?

All mammals have what is called an “acid mantle” – a thin layer of acidic oil that covers the top layer of skin and protects it from bacteria, viruses, and other harmful elements. When humans bathe, we wash away that protective mantle. Human shampoos and soaps are typically formulated with oils and moisturizers that replace that acidic layer until the body is able to rejuvenate it on it’s own…usually within 12 hours. If that acid mantle is not replaced, we see irritated, dry, flaky skin, or even a bumpy rash.

That acidic layer is what determines the relative pH of both human and canine skin. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with levels more than 6.4 considered high alkalinity, and with levels less than 6.4 considered high acidity. Human skin falls into a pH range of 5.2 to 6.2, fairly acidic, and human shampoos and soaps are made to maintain that balance.

Canine skin, on the other hand, can range from 5.5 to 7.5, moving into more of an alkaline range depending on the breed, sex, and size of the dog. The climate of where the dog lives also factors into skin balance.

Pet parents can make the mistake of using human shampoo on their dogs, and totally remove that acidic mantle without the dog’s body being able to replenish the needed oils back to its normal range. When that happens, you’ll see a dog with dry, itchy skin that can lead to scratching sores and bacterial infections.

What do I look for in doggy shampoos?

Read the labels on canine shampoos. Look for all-natural, organic ingredients, fragrances, moisturizers.

Shampoos containing natural, colloidal oatmeal, aloe vera, and tea tree oils will replace your dog’s natural skin balance more quickly than shampoos made with chemical components. Shampoos and rich conditioners with natural fragrances such as lavender, peppermint oil, or eucalyptus not only replenish skin oils and keep your pet smelling nice, they can also work as insect repellents.

Contrary to popular belief, you can wash your dog every week to every month (depending on the breed). Keeping your dog clean means washing away allergens that can make her itchy. And if you (the human) have allergies you really want to keep your dog allergen free. Buying a good quality, all-natural doggy shampoo and conditioner may mean digging a little deeper into your pockets than it does when you purchase your own shampoos and soaps – but one bottle can last 6 months and can save your dog from the incessant itching and scratching that comes from using a cheaper, human product. Click here to learn more about how washing your dog can help eliminate itchiness.

Categories
Grooming

Cold Weather Bathing- Solutions for Keeping Your Dog Clean During the Winter Months

If you’re like me and have dogs that literally hate getting in the bathtub for a regular cleaning, you tend to wait until the weather is warm enough so that you can use the garden hose outside to wash and rinse. Not only does it keep doggy hair from clogging up my drain, my four dogs can then air dry in the warmth of the sun without totally stressing out. But what do you do before the spring weather heats up the water outside and your bathtub-aphobic pooch really needs a good “de-stinkifying” scrub down?

Try a dry shampoo. Typically manufactured in a spray formula, a good, organic dry shampoo can kill that “dirty dog” smell without water or rinsing. This can help between regular baths and is great for cleaning dirty dog paws and muddy bellies.

Take your dog to a self-washing facility. Most towns and cities in this country now have at least one business that allows you to bring your dog in and bathe, rinse, and dry her using all of their equipment including standing tubs and hair dryers. You will be expected to bring your own shampoo and rinse, your own towels, and your dog’s brushes. If nail clipping is needed, that chore is on you also.

Bathing at home in cold weather requires certain allowances to keep your dog warm and happy. Make sure your bathroom and your whole house are nice and toasty warm. You don’t want your dog climbing out of a warm water bath and taking a chill.

Buy some protective eye gel or ophthalmic ointment from your veterinarian to squirt in your dog’s eyes prior to getting in the tub. This keeps irritating soap bubbles out of the eyes during bath time.

To save on time in the water and reduce the chances of getting cold, use an all-natural, organic shampoo and conditioner combo. By not having to rinse out the conditioner, you’re automatically reducing your water usage and giving your pooch extra time to get warm.

Keeping those ears clean, infection-free, and smelling nice is easily accomplished by using ear wipes containing colloidal silver. The colloidal silver is an all-natural ingredient that suppresses bacteria that causes ear disease and that musty smell.

Because colder weather often brings on incidences of dry skin, you may want to try an oatmeal shampoo to help combat the flakiness. The colloidal oatmeal in this type of shampoo is a proven remedy for the itchy skin that can lead to scratching, sores, and skin infections.

Allow your dog to shake off in the tub, and have several towels heating up in the clothes dryer to help soak up the water in her coat. Warm towels will automatically help stave off the cold until you’re able to dry the hair completely, and are a necessity if you have a short-coated pet.

For dogs with longer hair that need the use of a hair dryer, keep the air away from ears and eyes to lessen irritation and place the dryer on its low setting at least 12-inches away from the hair to keep from burning your dog’s skin.

And finally, if you have a space heater, move it to the bathroom and turn it on while your dog is in the bath, so your dog isn’t so cold when she gets out of the tub.