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spa – Itchy Dog Solutions
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Dog Conditioner Grooming Mattes & Tangles Shampoo

Long-Haired Dog Tips: How to Save Hundreds at the Groomers (Hint: Your Total Cost Will Only Be $12.99)

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Long-haired dogs are stunning to look at, but for most people, it can also be intimidating. But let me tell you – it doesn’t have to be that way. Just as with with the hair on your head, finding a regimen that works for you and your dog can make things both easier and more comfortable. It’s finding out what you need to do that can be tricky.

Thankfully, we have you covered, and will give you the lowdown on everything you need to know to keep your dog’s coat shiny, free of knots and most of all, more comfortable for your canine companion.

Before we get started on the basics though, it’s important to know the type of coat your dog has. There are essentially six different types of dog coats, some requiring less grooming than others. Since our focus is on mainly dogs with thick, long coats, we will look at the two types that apply to long haired dogs.

1) Smooth Coat – Dogs with a smooth coat don’t need to be groomed as often. There’s no hair to untangle, and you usually can get away with just washing and brushing. You may also want to use a dog shampoo and conditioner that make you dog’s hair shine. A dog shampoo such as our Sparkle and Shine Brightening Shampoo should do the trick.

2) Double Coat – A double-coat is exactly what it sounds like. Not only does the dog have one layer of hair, but there’s also an undercoat, making the fur thicker than their single-coated brethren. Not all double-coated dogs have long hair – some actually have short hair. Short-haired, double-coated dogs are a bit easier to groom than the long-haired variety, but you still need to make sure to brush out the undercoat in addition to the top coat. For the undercoat, you’ll want to brush outward from the skin. For the top coat, brush in the direction of the fur instead of against it.

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For long-haired dogs, you will want to section out the hair, focusing your attention on each section rather than the entire dog at once. Brush the undercoat away from the dog, as this removes any loose hair – and helps with shedding.

When brushing double-coated dogs, it’s not unusual to come across mats and tangles. Sure, you can try brushing them out, but chances are, your dog won’t be too crazy about it. Especially if there’s yanking and pulling involved. But don’t worry, there’s a special detangler that can help remove those nasty knots. Ruff to Smooth Detangler is a leave-in conditioner and detangler that can be used as an all-over conditioner after a bath or as a spot treatment on stubborn tangles. Yes, you can even use it on a dry dog, so no bath is needed to use it.

We talked about dog shampoo above, but there’s another product that’s also important to keep on hand. Most of us use conditioner on our own heads, and dogs are not much different. Having a conditioned coat can make it easier to brush and help minimize knots. Fur Butter Deep Conditioner is ideal for long-haired dogs or for those with damaged coats. In addition to helping you manage your dog’s fur, it also has colloidal oatmeal, a natural ingredient which helps minimize itching. There’s also Shea butter which helps moisturize your dog’s skin as well as their fur.

Whatever products you end up buying, however, be sure to look at the ingredients. You want to avoid sulfates, which tend to dry out skin and hair, just like in humans, and parabens. Natural ingredients like Shea butter, honey, natural based surfactants, and even yogurt are much better for your dog than many of the chemicals you’ll find in other brands. Especially when you have a dog who has a coat that is long and prone to knots and drying out, you want to make sure you take care of it much like you care for the hair on your head.

If your dog merely has long hair, but isn’t double coated, many of the same tips and tricks will still work. In fact, it’s the same philosophy, you just don’t have to worry about the undercoat. You’ll still want to find a shampoo, conditioner and a detangler to help manage the coat. Once you find the right products and start grooming them, it will only become easier and easier with repeated washings. And as an extra bonus – by grooming your dog, you will also cut down on shedding, so both you and your dog will be happier, healthier and more comfortable.

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Massaging an Elderly Dog:

Upgrade from Petting to Massage

by Xiomara Iraheta

Massaging your dog can be beneficial for various health reasons; it can increase blood circulation, help relieve aches and pains, reduce blood pressure and even soothe away fears. But massaging an elderly dog can really tune you to your dog’s evolving body. Best of all, it will make you two feel closer than ever before knowing that you enjoy caring for one another.

It’s best to establish a routine for massage time with your dog, try doing it once a week and gradually doing it daily but don’t let it become a chore; it should remain a pleasant experience for the both of you.

First, you want to ease them into the massage by setting the mood or calming them down with Calming Aromatherapy Spritzer all you have to do is s pray the product into your hand and let your dog breathe in the soothing aroma of lavender and chamomile essential oils and they’ll be enchanted. Spray it on their coat and you’ll have a well conditioned and detangled coat to run your fingers through. If you’ve got more of an anxious or nervous dog you may want to try Sleepytime Tonic that will nourish their physical nervous system and set them to enjoy the pleasures of massage.

If you’re living with a city dog, you’re probably used to leaving them home alone for the majority of the day-so the next time you call out, “Honey, I’m home” why not rekindle your love with a massage using some of the following techniques.

Palm Strokes:

Take your palms and slightly cup them. Place them face down on a large part of your dog’s body, like the back. Working your hands in a breast-stroke-like motion (or wax- on wax-off motion) massage your pet outward. Stroke heavy on the way up and lighter on the way down. The variation in the pressure makes it more pleasurable for your dog.

Thumb Strokes:

Draw tiny circles with your thumbs, using both simultaneously. Apply a good amount of pressure, slowly in circular movements to produce a tingly sensation. Beware not to apply this technique directly on the spine because it’s painful so do it on each side which feels great.

Quack Strokes:

Take your hands and form duck beaks or bills facing each other, have both slightly open and motion so that the bottom part of one goes inside the other. Work diagonally on your dog using a rhythmic pattern. Apply more pressure on the hindquarters than the abdomen area.

Factors to consider with Joint Mobility

· Hindquarters – since they’re using their back legs a lot less the circulation to their kidneys get reduced. Gently massage their back legs with thumb strokes and feel out their stiff and tense muscles. Only begin to press a little deeper when his muscles relax.

· Weight – a recent study published claimed that half of pets are overweight. Carrying around extra weight makes mobility even harder on your aging dog. If you’re not sure whether your dog’s weight is affecting their joint mobility make sure to ask your vet for more specific diet advice.

· Exercise – he may not be as mobile as before but taking more frequent walks for shorter distances can help keep your dog active and healthy as he ages.

· Collagen – is the most abundant protein found in joint cartilage and New Bio Cell Collagen Type II helps build new cartilage and reduce further damage to the joints. This patented, all natural ingredient is extremely absorbable so more of the formula gets to the site of the problem. Joint Resolution by happytails helps improve joint mobility and flexibility, promote healthy strong connective tissue, is easy to administer and is organically grown and ethically harvested herb.

*For more massage tips and advice see Jane Buckle’s How to Massage Your Dog and Maryjean Ballner’s Dog Massage .

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Dog Conditioner Grooming Shampoo

Is there really any difference between dog shampoo & human shampoos?

HappyTails2We hear this question all the time– “what’s the difference between my shampoo and my dog’s shampoo?”

You may be surprised to learn that a lot is different. Of course, if you run out of Fido’s shampoo and you use your own to wash your dog a couple of times, nothing will happen. Your dog’s hair won’t fall out and life will probably go on as normal.

But there are areas in which human and dog shampoos differ. You may not notice the ill effects of human shampoo if used only a couple of times, but after repeated use, you’ll start to see.

1. Ingredients. Dog’s have different problems that humans do. We usually don’t sit around and scratch our heads as much as dogs scratch. This is because dog’s eliminate toxins differently than we do. We can sweat them out. Since dogs really don’t sweat, their toxins are eliminated through their kidneys and bowels. Try an all natural herbal detoxifier that you add to your dog’s food. As a topical solution to relieve itchy skin and soothe skin inflammations try products with colloidal oatmeal , boswellia, burdock and comfrey. The best shampoo to help relieve itchy skin is Comfy Dog Oatmeal Shampoo for Dry & Itchy Skin.

2. Ph Balance. A dog’s skin is about 7.5 while human skin is about 5.5 (to put it in perspective, water is about 7.0). Therefore, a dog’s skin is more alkaline so ideally a dog’s shampoo should be between 6.5-7.5 or it could be irritating to the skin. Highly acidic shampoos may also diminish the hair’s protective qualities, removing valuable oil from the coat and skin. the result is dry, irritated skin and a dull coat. Of course it’s a vicious cycle because the dog will scratch which only makes the problem worse.

3. Dog’s have sensitive skin– A dog only has about 3-5 cell-layers thick while we have about 10-15 layers thick. So, harsh shampoos with lots of chemicals and those that aren’t PH balanced will be irritating.

The case for conditioners – Shampoos by design are used for cleaning- removing unwanted grime from the skin and coat. But shampooing, without sealing the coat afterwords, leaves the hair shaft open– at that point residue can enter and oils and hydration escapes.

What you can do is use a conditioner after shampooing to close the hair cuticle and restore hydration, moisture and elasticity.

Conditioners also fill in the damaged hair that drying, brushing, dematting and rubbing causes. Just normal wear and tear chips away at the hair cuticle. Conditioners can help to remove the cuticle to a smooth state and one that gives a more lustrous appearance and feel.

The best deep conditioner I’ve used is Fur Butter (or Fur Worse). It’s an oatmeal based ultra rich conditioning treatment for dry, damaged and long coats. It’s the richest conditioner I’ve used and leaves the dog very soft & silky.

So now you know the difference– there really is one!